Surfing, Skateboarding, Music, Photography, Travel, Culture and general antics of the youth on the run.

Journal entry numero who gives a fuck Collected Thoughts 025

Dillon Perillo in France
10.09.12 – TAGS: ,

(Photo: Alex Laurel)

By Dillon Perillo

(Short easy not the end more to come prose #needsimprovement. —Dillon, sent from on the road in Europe)

A whole life. I wait for my flight. I wait for it to land. I wait for my ride that hopefully picks me up.

What the fuck am I doing writing prose like this? I’m a near-retarded surfer. I’ve been reading too much. Too much Fante. But it helps relieve from the surf trends that numb my brain and helps me to better understand real life situations because my life isn’t real life.

I’m aware of this. I’m sitting in an airport lounge no better than a rat hole listening to all of Portugal’s problems play on television in the background. It’s almost hard to concentrate. I can hardly spell concentrate.

I spent my whole day driving with my friend around this island in search of lagoons and street art. Mysterious street art. Completely random but there’s not much else to life here. It’s rare for me to travel to a place where the land is more than a sideshow. It’s very enjoyable and it’s aided us here. I try to discover the different qualities and it keeps me from reverting to my home life where everything is supremely conventional.

I came here from New York. New York was great. I think it changed my life, but ask anyone about the effect New York had on their life and they would have the same annoying answer. But it did. It’s magic and it’s extremely gigantic and endless and never boring. It’s transformed me into a wanderer and nuisance. I feel dirty and careless but I think it’s good and great for me. I am happy to sit around. I saw a lake today and I’m calling this a journal entry. Journal entry numero who gives a fuck.

I question an airline on which a business class ticket is hardly a hundred dollars more than economy but I bought it anyway. I question a fourteen-hour layover in Lisbon but I choose to endure it anyway.

what youth nate lawrence collected thoughts

More of the Same Same Collected Thoughts 130: Year of the fucking drone.

“So here we are. 2017. Year of the fucking drone. We’re pretty far behind schedule, according to Marty McFly. But finally every single person in the world owns a drone. Yay! And now we get to look at even more of the same same. Same beach. Same angle. Different caption. (insert grammatical error here) The…

what youth mitch coleborn nate lawrence surfing

Mitch Coleborn in Indonesia Collected Thoughts 129

“Surfing will always have those off-moments that make you pause and really appreciate the place we get to play.” —Nate Lawrence

what youth collected thoughts Bali Nate Lawrence

The Inside Section Collected Thoughts 128: Nate Lawrence is at it again

Editor’s Note: Nate doesn’t realize how messed up this is, sending us these insane, casual lineups from the weekend when we’re in the sharky doldrums of summer, and he’s running through race tracks like this. That being said, might be time we join him, back on the road…  “The inside section, looking oh-so fun on a…

what youth surfing john john florence

A John John Florence Prediction Collected Thoughts 127: Nate Lawrence chimes in on the sporting side of things

“There’s been plenty to talk about with the WSL recently. Most of it about the horrible advertisements and even worse music coinciding with the WSL. But I got to thinking after watching the 2nd round of the NBA Playoffs and how un-competitive it has been — it’s almost like the WSL. Kelly Slater was Michael…

what youth indo nate lawrence surfing waves

My Indo Dream Wave Collected Thoughts 126: Nate Lawrence and the wave that started his Indo Obsession

“For the better part of my teenage years I drooled at photos of this wave. I still do today” —Nate Lawrence Editor’s Note: Nate Lawrence was there to document this wave when it was new. Timmy Tuner and Brett Schwartz and Travis Potter would venture to the jungles of Indo, get dropped off and wait for…

what youth nate lawrence bali surfing waves

New Swell in Bali Collected Thoughts 125

“The swell is filing in and we found a nice right all to ourselves. Bali bagus.” —Nate Lawrence

what youth john john florence photographed by nate lawrence

John John Florence, 14 for Five years Collected Thoughts 124

Looking at this photo, it seems like so long ago. John John was this young, long haired blonde kid who surfed Pipe. I remember seeing him paddling out in pretty big conditions and thinking that he was going to drown. But he didn’t. And then he caught one of those big waves. But that’s all…

what youth surfing nate lawrence

Nate’s Back where the water is warm Collected Thoughts 123: After a stint in CA, Nate’s back in the tropics

“Man, it’s nice being back in the tropics…” —Nate Lawrence

what youth yago dora surfing indonesia

Yago Dora, Indonesia, 2016 Collected Thoughts 122

“There was a time in my life that I could do nothing except think about Macaroni’s. Like every day I would think – how am I going to get there. I think Yago thought the same thing on our trip. He was on another boat trip and was supposed to hop straight onto ours. It…

what youth collected thouthgs Kolohe Andino photographed by Nate Lawrence

Kolohe Andino, Bali 2013 Collected Thoughts 121

“Nobody’s perfect, and we love that.” —Nate Lawrence

what youth dion agius photographed by nate lawrence

Dion Agius, Hossegor, 2015 Collected Thoughts 120

“I first saw Dion on the cover of Transworld Surf magazine. It was a D.Hump flash photo that popped Dion onto the map in America. He was young. He was Australian. That was pretty much all I knew about him. Fast forward 12 years and still, a lot of people don’t know much about Dion….

what youth collected thoughts green bush surfing indonesia nate lawrence

Collected Thoughts 119 Nate Lawrence mind surfing Indonesia

“I always look at photos of Greenbush, and wonder why the guy isn’t taking off behind the peak…” —Nate Lawrence