Surfing, Skateboarding, Music, Photography, Travel, Culture and general antics of the youth on the run.

Gunner Day Driving Through Indo Collected Thoughts 113: What makes this kid any different?

what youth gunner day photography by timmy Ridenour
Photo: Timmy Ridenour

So you’re 16 and an up-and-coming professional surfer from San Clemente…so what? There are a lot of those. Like a lot.  T Street looks like an Olympic training ground of fluorescent wetsuits these days.  So what are you suppose to do to stand out in the surf world? Is it the QS grind three to the beach and a reverse? (No it’s not) And it seems to be the clear choice of most kids these days. But for Gunner Day there is another option. An opportunity that only a few kids his age have: Go to Indo, shoot with the best, and get better at surfing.

And Gunner does this, with his dad. He hangs with Nate Lawrence and gets photos, and escapes the procedural surfing of So Cal. We recently drove, flew, drove some more, hiked a bit, took the rental car down some dodgy four-wheel drive tracks with mud pit exclamation points at the end.

We eventually ended up at a magical little bay filled with German tourists (none of whom, to our astonishment, seemed to notice the left hand slab out front winding away). Allegedly there are Tiger sharks and unmentionable things lurking in the channel — which was more like a rip current — but no one was out. There wasn’t a ‘QS beach break contest site for thousands of miles, just Gunner having a solo session away from the stress of chasing results, ratings and abiding to the norm of the surf industry.

The sun gave away to a tropical storm and an interesting photographic moment presented its self in the rain. I snapped a few pics while caught in the rip got pretty creeped out from what ever was swimming below and decided to call it a day. We got some clips had a few surfs in between chatting up the Euros on the beach. Then hit the road once again. But this time in search of some solid food, maybe buffet lunch and relaxing spa day.

There’s plenty of time to chase ‘QS rating but for today it seems like Gunner made the right call. Hang with the boys, surf empty waves, relax in a foreign country and call it work. Get a shot. Learn. And surf good waves. Gunner wins. —Timmy Ridenour

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New Swell in Bali Collected Thoughts 125

“The swell is filing in and we found a nice right all to ourselves. Bali bagus.” —Nate Lawrence

what youth john john florence photographed by nate lawrence

John John Florence, 14 for Five years Collected Thoughts 124

Looking at this photo, it seems like so long ago. John John was this young, long haired blonde kid who surfed Pipe. I remember seeing him paddling out in pretty big conditions and thinking that he was going to drown. But he didn’t. And then he caught one of those big waves. But that’s all…

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Nate’s Back where the water is warm Collected Thoughts 123: After a stint in CA, Nate’s back in the tropics

“Man, it’s nice being back in the tropics…” —Nate Lawrence

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Yago Dora, Indonesia, 2016 Collected Thoughts 122

“There was a time in my life that I could do nothing except think about Macaroni’s. Like every day I would think – how am I going to get there. I think Yago thought the same thing on our trip. He was on another boat trip and was supposed to hop straight onto ours. It…

what youth collected thouthgs Kolohe Andino photographed by Nate Lawrence

Kolohe Andino, Bali 2013 Collected Thoughts 121

“Nobody’s perfect, and we love that.” —Nate Lawrence

what youth dion agius photographed by nate lawrence

Dion Agius, Hossegor, 2015 Collected Thoughts 120

“I first saw Dion on the cover of Transworld Surf magazine. It was a D.Hump flash photo that popped Dion onto the map in America. He was young. He was Australian. That was pretty much all I knew about him. Fast forward 12 years and still, a lot of people don’t know much about Dion….

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Collected Thoughts 119 Nate Lawrence mind surfing Indonesia

“I always look at photos of Greenbush, and wonder why the guy isn’t taking off behind the peak…” —Nate Lawrence

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Collected Thoughts 118 Stretch Surfboards shaping room, 2013

“I’ve always had a fascination with surfboard shapers. Mainly because they are really weird and mostly crazy. And I like crazy. Growing up in Santa Cruz and visiting a few of the local shapers, I started to see some similarities. Empty cans of Coors Light. Photos on the walls of mostly naked women and day-of-the-decade…

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Mason Ho doesn’t have bad surfs Collected Thoughts 117 with Nate Lawrence

“Does Mason ever have a bad surf? Nope.” —Nate Lawrence

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Dane Reynolds, Honest in Chapter 11 Collected Thoughts 116

“If you haven’t already watched Dane’s new film, Chapter 11, go watch it now. It is one of the most honest pieces on surfing that I have ever seen. As a huge fan of Dane Reynolds, I have liked almost everything he has ever been involved in. First Chapter. Young Guns. His section in Campaign…

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When Obama got Elected Collected Thoughts 115: Nate Lawrence’s view from abroad

I was in Senegal, West Africa when Obama got inaugurated for the first time. There was a sense of excitement and joy wherever I traveled for that next year. As an expat living overseas I had been saying I was Canadian when people asked. It was the safe thing to do, especially in Muslim countries…

Frame Grabs aren’t taking over. Yet. Collected Thoughts 114: Nate Lawrence on the new Canon 1DX Mark II

I recently saw a photo from a Canon event where editors from Surfing Magazine were giving a talk. A big pull quote was streaming from a projector saying, “THE DIGITAL CAMERA WAS JUST A TEMPORARY BRIDGE FROM FILM TO FRAME GRABS” —Peter Taras There’s been a bit of talk recently about Canon’s new 1DX Mark…