Surfing, Skateboarding, Music, Photography, Travel, Culture and general antics of the youth on the run.

Gunner Day Driving Through Indo Collected Thoughts 113: What makes this kid any different?

what youth gunner day photography by timmy Ridenour
Photo: Timmy Ridenour

So you’re 16 and an up-and-coming professional surfer from San Clemente…so what? There are a lot of those. Like a lot.  T Street looks like an Olympic training ground of fluorescent wetsuits these days.  So what are you suppose to do to stand out in the surf world? Is it the QS grind three to the beach and a reverse? (No it’s not) And it seems to be the clear choice of most kids these days. But for Gunner Day there is another option. An opportunity that only a few kids his age have: Go to Indo, shoot with the best, and get better at surfing.

And Gunner does this, with his dad. He hangs with Nate Lawrence and gets photos, and escapes the procedural surfing of So Cal. We recently drove, flew, drove some more, hiked a bit, took the rental car down some dodgy four-wheel drive tracks with mud pit exclamation points at the end.

We eventually ended up at a magical little bay filled with German tourists (none of whom, to our astonishment, seemed to notice the left hand slab out front winding away). Allegedly there are Tiger sharks and unmentionable things lurking in the channel — which was more like a rip current — but no one was out. There wasn’t a ‘QS beach break contest site for thousands of miles, just Gunner having a solo session away from the stress of chasing results, ratings and abiding to the norm of the surf industry.

The sun gave away to a tropical storm and an interesting photographic moment presented its self in the rain. I snapped a few pics while caught in the rip got pretty creeped out from what ever was swimming below and decided to call it a day. We got some clips had a few surfs in between chatting up the Euros on the beach. Then hit the road once again. But this time in search of some solid food, maybe buffet lunch and relaxing spa day.

There’s plenty of time to chase ‘QS rating but for today it seems like Gunner made the right call. Hang with the boys, surf empty waves, relax in a foreign country and call it work. Get a shot. Learn. And surf good waves. Gunner wins. —Timmy Ridenour

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Dion Agius, Hossegor, 2015 Collected Thoughts 120

“I first saw Dion on the cover of Transworld Surf magazine. It was a D.Hump flash photo that popped Dion onto the map in America. He was young. He was Australian. That was pretty much all I knew about him. Fast forward 12 years and still, a lot of people don’t know much about Dion….

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Collected Thoughts 119 Nate Lawrence mind surfing Indonesia

“I always look at photos of Greenbush, and wonder why the guy isn’t taking off behind the peak…” —Nate Lawrence

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Collected Thoughts 118 Stretch Surfboards shaping room, 2013

“I’ve always had a fascination with surfboard shapers. Mainly because they are really weird and mostly crazy. And I like crazy. Growing up in Santa Cruz and visiting a few of the local shapers, I started to see some similarities. Empty cans of Coors Light. Photos on the walls of mostly naked women and day-of-the-decade…

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Mason Ho doesn’t have bad surfs Collected Thoughts 117 with Nate Lawrence

“Does Mason ever have a bad surf? Nope.” —Nate Lawrence

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Dane Reynolds, Honest in Chapter 11 Collected Thoughts 116

“If you haven’t already watched Dane’s new film, Chapter 11, go watch it now. It is one of the most honest pieces on surfing that I have ever seen. As a huge fan of Dane Reynolds, I have liked almost everything he has ever been involved in. First Chapter. Young Guns. His section in Campaign…

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When Obama got Elected Collected Thoughts 115: Nate Lawrence’s view from abroad

I was in Senegal, West Africa when Obama got inaugurated for the first time. There was a sense of excitement and joy wherever I traveled for that next year. As an expat living overseas I had been saying I was Canadian when people asked. It was the safe thing to do, especially in Muslim countries…

Frame Grabs aren’t taking over. Yet. Collected Thoughts 114: Nate Lawrence on the new Canon 1DX Mark II

I recently saw a photo from a Canon event where editors from Surfing Magazine were giving a talk. A big pull quote was streaming from a projector saying, “THE DIGITAL CAMERA WAS JUST A TEMPORARY BRIDGE FROM FILM TO FRAME GRABS” —Peter Taras There’s been a bit of talk recently about Canon’s new 1DX Mark…

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Gunner Day Driving Through Indo Collected Thoughts 113: What makes this kid any different?

So you’re 16 and an up-and-coming professional surfer from San Clemente…so what? There are a lot of those. Like a lot.  T Street looks like an Olympic training ground of fluorescent wetsuits these days.  So what are you suppose to do to stand out in the surf world? Is it the QS grind three to the beach and a…

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Luke Hynd at The Bush Collected Thoughts 112: Timmy Ridenour talks about shooting Greenbush from the water

I would like to tell you about me being scared. And the dangers of swimming 8- to 10-foot Green Bush at close proximity to the reef with a very large camera. I assure you it’s a scary place at any breakable size and I was scared. But in the split second this photo was taken…

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Craig Anderson, Mentawai Islands Collected Thoughts 111: Horrible waves in Indo aren’t that bad

“We hopped on the Bintang boat and got the best waves of our year. Shortly after, we got back on that same boat and got the worst waves of our year. Turns out, horrible waves in the Mentawais still aren’t that bad…” —Nate Lawrence

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Gunner Day Mind Pump Collected Thoughts 110

“A three week flat spell led to an over-hyped swell. The over-hyped swell led to a crowded lineup. The crowded lineup led to searching for other waves. Gunner Day. A first timer to the inside-mind-pump section.” —Nate Lawrence

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Have Surf Magazines Lost their Minds? Collected Thoughts 109

Have surf magazines lost their minds? First off, surf photographers have always been creepy people. Writers, not much better. But it seems in my years dealing with surf magazines that the people in charge are usually pretty turned on. They know how to make a very selfish sport look fun and inviting. I always looked…