Surfing, Skateboarding, Music, Photography, Travel, Culture and general antics of the youth on the run.

WHAT YOUTH EATS: RAW BEEF The latest in our Raw Series: Steak tartare is the primest of the prime.

what youth eats, raw, radical class, paul brewer
Photos: Paul Brewer

For the last few weeks we’ve gone raw. We’re doing it all for the flavor — an exercise to experience great ingredients at their root essence, with a secondary win of less time cooking and more time having summertime fun outside (making raw things takes less time, duh). So far we’ve focused on fish and honestly, we’d be thrilled to eat Spicy Don bowls and albacore crudo for the rest of summer.

But what else can we eat raw? Veggies? Of course, but more on that later. Fruit? Yeah, but you know that. Chicken? Only if you’re a psychopath Jeffery Dahmer in training, like this person. How about raw beef?

My first exposure to this was at the now-closed Comme Ça in Las Vegas, back when I had a healthy expense account and a high desire to spend every penny of it. The French bistro served a beautiful chopped raw beef seasoned with all sorts of greatness, topped with an egg yolk, served with some grilled country bread. I sat at the bar, ate it with a martini as my company, and loved every second of it. Light, fresh, clean, delicious. The best part was as I walked out I realized, “Hey, I can make that!”

After all, it is just chopped meat, some seasoning, an egg yolk, and some bread. Four main things that are totally doable and yield beautiful results.

Above everything, all your ingredients have to be super premium and fresh. Just like you wouldn’t make tuna sashimi with some smelly ass fish, don’t make beef tartare with bargain-isle cow. Get yourself some nice sirloin from a good place — grass fed, free range, well-butchered beef. You don’t have to go as far as knowing that the late-cow’s name was Colin, but do some work and know what you’re feeding yourself. Same goes for the rest of the ingredients: buy the best that you can swing.

Steak Tartare with Crusty Bread

For Steak Tartare

  • Whole Sirloin, ½ lb. per person, fat trimmed off
  • Capers, chopped
  • Couple of cloves garlic, minced
  • A generous squirt of Dijon mustard
  • A little anchovy paste, or chopped anchovies
  • Some chopped parsley
  • A splash of olive oil
  • 1 egg yolk per serving
  • A few slices of crusty sourdough, country, or French bread per person
  • 1 martini per person (gin, vermouth, cold)

Chop the beef. Do it as fine as you can, somewhere between ¼ cubes and mashing it into a ground beef mess. This will go easily if your knife is sharp and the beef is semi-frozen… it’ll squish and slide around less.

Mix. In a bowl, mix your chopped steak with the ingredients through olive oil. Make sure it’s all combined well and the anchovies have melted into the mixture. Add salt and pepper and adjust amounts until it tastes balanced.

Form. I like to use a little bowl or ramekin for this as a form. For each serving, press the steak mixture into the bowl, compacting it in there. On your serving plate, flip the bowl over to leave a perfectly formed mound.

Grill. You could toast your bread slices, but throwing them on the grill for a quick char ups the presentation and adds a smoky grill flavor that works with the steak. (I know grilled bread isn’t raw. Give me a break though.)

Finish. Using your fingers or a little spoon, make a well in the top of the mound you just made. Carefully slip in the raw egg yolk, then crack some pepper on top.

Eat. Best to break the egg yolk with your fork and put a little on the crusty grilled bread as you eat. And don’t forget to sip your martini, it’s not going to drink itself. —Paul Brewer

what youth radical class cocktails with paul brewer

What Youth Drinks Building Blocks to a Great Cocktail

Did you know making cocktails is as easy as 1-2-3? Well, it can be with Booze-Acid-Sugar. In this brave new world of crazy ass cocktails, it’s easy to get overwhelmed by all these circus dick concoctions. Artisanal aperitifs, flavored vodkas, and flair-full garnishes are all real fancy, but sometimes they cloud the basics. Because, when…

Radical Class: What Youth Reads Homage to Catalonia: a book seven decades young and still topical!

The Spaniards are good at many things, but not at making war. All foreigners are alike appalled by their inefficiency, above all their maddening unpunctuality. The one word that no foreigner can avoid learning is mañana.—George Orwell, Homage to Catalonia I bring books with me when I go on vacation for two reasons. One, I struggle…

Radical Class: “The Center Will Not Hold” Definitely watch the new Netflix documentary on writer Joan Didion

In a world full of chaos, absurdity, tragedy and Stranger Things, it’s always nice to find some larger perspective in a good old fashioned documentary. And the latest on writer Joan Didion is that. Few names have encouraged an entire generation of people and writers the way she has. And just a few minutes into the…

Radical Class, What Youth Drinks, Paul Brewer

WHAT YOUTH DRINKS: COCCI AMERICANO An Easy, Inexpensive way to Live that Riviera High Life

I snagged a bottle of this Cocci Americano stuff after seeing it on the shelf at a cocktail bar in Long Beach, CA. It was an impromptu buy — I didn’t know what it was or what to do with it, but thought I’d figure it out. Experiment! Cocktail jazz improvisation! While I’ll save the…

Radical Class, Berlin, Adam Warren

Radical Class: Hope from the Road Just when you thought it was all over: there is Berlin  

Turns out there is still hope out there. Out there, beyond your day-to-day, somewhere out on the road its not all politics, hurricanes, bad vibes and bad memes. In fact, the other day I found myself way outside the bad lands somewhere in Berlin. Just off the plane I walked around the Mitte District. I meandered…

WHAT YOUTH EATS: AGUACHILE Another Raw One: Sinaloa Spicy Shrimp

If you’ve been following along, you know that we’ve gone raw at for the last few weeks. We’ve played with raw tuna a couple different ways (here and here), and got fancy and fresh with a raw beef tartare last week. It’s been fun, delicious, and the whole experiment has opened up our late…

what youth eats, raw, radical class, paul brewer

WHAT YOUTH EATS: RAW BEEF The latest in our Raw Series: Steak tartare is the primest of the prime.

For the last few weeks we’ve gone raw. We’re doing it all for the flavor — an exercise to experience great ingredients at their root essence, with a secondary win of less time cooking and more time having summertime fun outside (making raw things takes less time, duh). So far we’ve focused on fish and…

Tuna Don, Adam Warren, What Youth Eats

WY EATS: Spicy Tuna Don Another hit from our RAW series — best washed down with ice cold Kirin

Its time to expand on our RAW capabilities here. And just like the Mediterranean version of the albacore crudo that you’ve already mastered, we are leaning on our Japanese influence of raw efficiencies for our next dish: The Spicy Tuna Don. “Don” is short for “donburi” which is a traditional Japanese dish where any number…

what youth guide to the bar

WY Guide: The Bartender Getting a drink in a crowded bar is an art. Here’s your paint set.

As Shane Dorian famously said in Loose Change: “What’s your poison man?” That ageless, sometimes slightly altered greeting has been heard by bar patrons since the first bar opened circa 900 AD. And after 1100 years of human interaction at these establishments one would hope there would be some orderly and respectful manner one might…

WHAT YOUTH EATS: RAW The first in a Series: Albacore Crudo

For the next couple of weeks, I’m going raw. This isn’t some nonsense trendy food fad out of Beverly Hills: this is all about efficiency and simplicity. Efficiency because eating raw means less time in the kitchen and more time outside shredding through summer. Simplicity because I won’t have to develop complex sauces and spend…

what youth dead writers shirt

The WY Dead Writers T-Shirt Before it’s gone here’s why it exists

We still read…actual books even. And while a lot of our favorite writers are long gone, their influence is still smothering us. They’ve left us with piles and piles of great reading, insight, fucked up situations, and maniacal living to read about. This shirt is an ode to them. Here’s a run through who they…

what youth drinks tequila

What Youth Drinks: The Paloma Cuz it’s just so damn hot outside

It’s officially summer now. And since we’ve already taught you how to order a margarita the right way here, now it’s time to learn how to make the G of all tequila cocktails best drank in the sun: The Paloma. If the margarita is the popular girl in high school that everyone knows, then the Paloma…

Sign up for letters from What Youth