There is a lot of chaos cluttering our brains these days. Texts prevent pondering. Snapchats prevent reverie. Twitter prevents epiphany. Instagram prevents memory. And thunderstorms prevent brainstorms. And on and on.
It’s difficult to get true commitment — let alone ponder the fact that beyond our instantaneously gratified society there are canyons in the oceans where vampire fish live; or meditate for a moment on the fact that there is space. How can one ponder space when it’s nearly impossible to initiate a real conversation? Warrant a look in the eyes or an earnest response? It is easy to track someone today, yes. It is hard, however, to elicit anything of substance as we walk around like the texting dead.
Which leads us to the motivation behind this trip we did to the coast and why we chose these surfers: Creed McTaggart, Chippa Wilson, Ryan Callinan and Dillon Perillo. We wanted to remind ourselves of something. Something about existence. About humanity. About surfing. This is part four of This is Us: Australia and we hope you like it. We got a house, drank beers, went surfing, drove around, fucked around and talked about chicks. Ryan wore his wetsuit the whole damn trip and Creed had a few cigarettes. Dillon read poetry and Chippa applied fresh Fox stickers for the first time. It’s wasn’t always deep and meaningful (although at times it was) but it was fun, and this is what it looked like.