The spot where this wave breaks… it’s mostly a longboard spot. The guy surfing there… he’s mostly a longboard dude. Even the band stitching these two elements together in this video… they don’t exist any more.
Just this footage.
It went like this.
A motorcycle brand (Deus ex Machina) sent a longboarder (Harrison Roach) to a tiny town in Indonesia (nope) to work on his new signature Fish model… and just then this humdinger of a Indian Ocean swell rolled through like a toenail ripped from the foot of apocalypse. Mr. Roach is a waterman of the highest caliber. Perfectly undergunned and only mildly need of little branded outfit change.
This is his session. Solo and hollow. Black and blue and red all over.
A timely reminder that storms can be the best thing ever.