You grew up in Maui right? What was in like growing up in Maui in your era?
Yeah, it was cool because there were so many fun little waves and it wasn’t as crowded as it is now. But as a grom you were definitely in the back of the line and always getting tortured.
You were friends with Justin Roberson and Eric Diaz? How did their passing affect you?
Justin was a lot older then me. He pretty much paved the way for us and was one of those guys that didn’t take shit from anyone but was very humble about it. So that kinda gave us that mentality to hold it down but be respectful. “Little E” was a year younger than me, so he was like my little brother. We were really close. Both Justin and Eric passed at such a young age and were so talented in and out of the water. We had some big shoes to fill.
Weren’t you on the US National team or something like that?
Uhhh no, fuck I wish. I was on Hawaii’s world team.
Who were some of the other surfers on that team?
I was on with Andy, Bruce, Paul Cheplic, Braden Dias, Kalani Robb, Daniel Kelakoma and a few more. That year it was in Brazil.
Who did you grow up idolizing?
Johnny Boy Gomes, Pottz and Matt Archbold were my favorites.
I remember answering the phone at the old Volcom House and you were calling from jail. Everyone was pissed at me cuz I didn’t pass the phone off to anyone for you to talk to. What landed you there?
Just being dumb and not thinking before I reactedt is what happened. I definitely learned my lesson. Having to go through the system is a nightmare.
Anyone that knows you knows you’re a really nice guy. Would you rather be known as that guy or a big scary tatted up dude that surfs Pipe? Haha.
Haha I’m definitely trying to be a nicer person and I think being around people like Tai (Vandyke) and Gavin (Beschen) helps me a lot with that.
Do you have any big regrets?
My biggest regret was probably not giving up on surfing but just not being stoked on surfing after getting dropped from Rusty Surfboards in 2001. The whole surf scene just kinda left a bad taste in my mouth. I was super over it.
How did you get back on track after your stint in the pen?
After my little vacay in county, I was still stuck in the system for a couple years on probation doing all kinds of classes, having to check in every week. But I learned the only people that the system doesn’t know how to deal with is people that comply. If you do everything they ask they’re just baffled because they’re so used to people fucking up. I never really fell off track it was just a little bump in the road. I’m stoked I got that shit over with.
And how did you get back on Volcom after such a long hiatus from the surf scene?
Tai would always hook me up with Volcom clothes and he kinda had me on the flow trip. That was the only thing that kept me stoked on surfing. I think it was around 2011 I moved back to Oahu and started to get amped again surfing every day having fun again. Shortly after, Volcom started giving me a little cash.
What’s it like riding for such an amazing brand?
It’s super sick because they’re so family oriented and everyone gets along. And they have the two best houses on the North Shore. What more could you ask for?
What’s the heaviest thing you’ve seen go down on the North Shore?
There’s been so many heavy moments that have gone on in the past but the most recent had to have been when Dusty hit the reef. Noa and I were surfing Off The Wall and watched it all go down. Lucky thing that Keoki (Saguibo) was swimming, shooting phots and got to him so quick. It goes to show you that it can happen so fast to anyone of us. I’m glad that Dusty’s doing good and I heard he was surfing recently, so that’s amazing.
How hard is it to pay your dues at Pipe?
It’s all about putting in your time out there knowing your surroundings, establishing your spot in the line up and just wanting it. You pay to play. Eventually you’re going to wipeout but you just got to get back out there.
You now call Pipeline home right?
Home sweet home.
What’s it like living right there full time?
It pretty gnarly. It’s not like you live down the road and don’t know it’s pumping. It’s in your front yard just blowing guts, fucking haunting you. Calling you out. You can’t hide from it. To tell you the truth it’s very nerve racking but I love it and I wouldn’t change a thing.
What’s next for Kaimana Henry?
I don’t know just trying not to worry about the future and not dwell on the past and hopefully get some more barrels and keep laughing.
Any cool projects coming up?
I’ve been stacking clips the last couple years and want to put together something cool just trying to find some good music and figure out how to put it all together. Hopefully by October I’ll be done.
What would your biopic be called if one was made on you?
Fuck, I don’t know I kinda had a couple titles in mind for my project but I still gotta think about that one.
Any last words?
I just want to say thank you to everyone who helped me along my journey and sorry to anyone I’ve wronged along the way.