This is the first time I’ve had to sit out a swell because of an injury. And as hard as I’ve tried to be at ease with it, this fucking sucks. So far, the first south of the summer months has brought out the good parts of summer: glassy conditions under gloomy skies, warm water and enough wind swell to break up the relentless lines powering through the Pacific. Lowers has been maxing. Malibu has been nonstop and every beachbreak in the state seems to be freight train lefts that are makeable. So good for everyone, bad for me.
Here are a few from the lens of photographer Hunter Martinez.
Shane Borland (Jake Kelley in background).