Surfing, Skateboarding, Music, Photography, Travel, Culture and general antics of the youth on the run.

Gabriel Medina in a Locker Room Collected Thoughts 068

Gabriel Medina 2014 Hurley Lowers Pro
09.11.14 – TAGS: , , ,
Photo: Quinn Matthews

Is this us? Ummm, hopefully not…

We choose not to talk about the ASP tour or (whatever you call it now) too much. You may have noticed. But it’s not for lack of psych on surfing. Or the boys who tear on the tour, because we’re fans of their ripping. It’s more about the disconnect we feel when it does this. A surfer, deep inside a closed off locker room, headphones on, entrenched in focus and fire and ritual. Seemingly turning everything that makes surfing the greatest lifestyle ever into a locker room hallway of doom and gloom.

A lot of people forget that it’s rarely about just “the activity” that makes surfing sick. It’s all the sick shit that comes with it: the excitement, anticipation, fun, psych and amp that comes to us on the car ride to the beach. The friendships. The parking lots. The late nights, the early mornings, the long flights, the daydreams, the long drives on moments notice. All the ridiculous shit we do. That’s what appeals to us. The surfing act is done, and it is as fun as anything we can imagine, but it leads to so many other things and it’s that part that makes it so great. So unique. So different. We just can’t allow ourselves to degrade it to a lonely locker room over sand.

We quit playing sports to be surfers. Not to be on the surf team.

Just a thought. And don’t get us started on the ASP desk on the beach shit… —Travis

Dane Reynolds photographed by Kai Neville In Japan What Youth

Dane Reynolds on Public Transportation Collected Thoughts 003

This is Dane on the train to Osaka, in Japan. Osaka is about an hour from its airport and our exit flight left the next day, and as none of us had been to Osaka we decided to ride in and see the sights. The city turns out to be rad, like a smaller Tokyo,…

Craig Anderson photographed in New York by Kai Neville What Youth

Craig Anderson between the bars Collected Thoughts 002

Photo by Kai Neville Kai took this photo of Craig a little before 1 a.m. in Brooklyn, New York. They’re leaving the strange party they wandered into after a Dirty Beaches show at Williamsburg’s Glasslands Gallery — truly they did, they sauntered all Australian through some odd open side door and into someone’s loft, where…

John John Florence in Barbados

John John in Barbados Collected Thoughts 001

This is John John Florence by the ghost of an Olympic pool at an abandoned resort in the parish of St. Lucy near the northern tip of Barbados, and what a useless cavity in the ground has he got here. The walls are too vertical to skate, there’s no water to ease the heat, there’s…

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