Big wave surfing has grown into a rather interesting portion of surf culture the past few years. Post tow-in debacle, there’s been a resurgence in paddling into massive waves on massive boards in what’s a pretty damn impressive and inspiring display of commitment. There were a lot of legends involved in the transition back to paddling, but the modern result has been a much more pure and respectable version of big wave surfing.
La Jolla’s Derek Dunfee represents the throwback mindset necessary to paddle into and surf big waves. Sponsored or not, he is there. When it breaks. He is there. Derek has been committed and there for the past decade, at all the spots including Mavericks, Puerto, Todos, Waimea, Jaws and all the secret ones too — and continues to be there despite not having a major sponsor. Derek caught our eye to be featured in For the Love for his commitment to surfing big waves despite obstacles — be it injury, lack of sponsor, or maintaining a “real” job. Derek finds a way to be there. Always. And that’s fucking respectable.
Another unique aspect to Derek is his commitment to creation. He’s produced, filmed, starred in and directed a handful of really rad films and projects the past few years including “Down with the Ship,” and his new project “Neptune Place” a series based around his hometown of La Jolla and the characters who dwell there and the very interesting conceptual film SHVDE.
Charging. Creating. Ripping. Friendly. Stylish. Intelligent. Meet Derek Dunfee.